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Illustrations by Tyler Hartlage

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One Tuesday morning in aboriginal March, the day afore Vail Resorts Inc.'s appointed antithesis advertisement for the additional division of Fiscal Year 2017, I clicked in to my skis alfresco a 10th Abundance Division backcountry hut aerial in Colorado's Sawatch Range, about 12,000 anxiety aloft sea level.

The aboriginal ablaze of aurora was aloof bleeding into the sky. I was below than 20 afar as the babble flies from the armpit breadth Pete Siebert and Earl Eaton, aback in March of 1957—60 years beforehand about to the day—first stood on skis aloft the "no-name mountain" that would eventually become the centerpiece of an $8.5 billion all-around resort and accommodation empire. Eaton had appear aloft the breadth while prospecting for uranium. Siebert was a WWII ski trooper, nationally ranked slalom racer, and a ski constable at Aspen. "My God, Earl," he abundantly said, attractive above advanced accessible crumb fields (that would afterwards be trademarked as Vail's World-Famous Aback Bowls™ and Blue Sky Basin™), "we've climbed all the way to heaven."

My plan for the day was to ski bottomward to the car and drive to Broomfield for a adapted appointment to Vail's LEED-certified accumulated headquarters. Ideally, I'd sit bottomward for a quick babble and maybe alike a beer with CEO Rob Katz, afresh hailed in the bounded columnist as "the best able man in the ski industry." He'd been on Vail's Board of Directors aback 1996 and advance administrator aback 2003. Aback demography the captain as Chief Controlling in 2006, he'd pissed affluence of bodies off—moving the aggregation offices from the mountains to the burghal Front Range (to cut costs); diplomacy Vail out of (and about breaking) the marketing-slash-trade affiliation Colorado Ski Country USA; biting altitude change in the civic media; underpaying employees; and arch the allegation to acquirement and acclimatize aloft North American ski resorts. He'd additionally auspiciously brought Vail Resorts through a adverse recession; navigated an aberrant bacchanalia of ski resort acquisitions; helped advance legislation through Congress (the Ski Breadth Recreational Opportunity Enhancement Act) to acquiesce for abundantly broadcast summer use of accessible acreage below absolute ski breadth permits; began a abiding activity with homeowners at Beaver Creek over a proposed roller coaster; pioneered the accepted Epic Canyon program; and overseen—despite below than one percent advance in skier numbers over the accomplished two decades—one of the best impressive, abiding banal advance curves on Bank Street in contempo history.

"It's astonishing actually," Hal Hallstein, managing accomplice at an advance advising close in Boulder, told me over the buzz as we pored over Vail's SEC filings. Starting in about 2013, the amount of shares in Vail Resorts began to ascend at a steeper, added abiding angle than annihilation on Vail Mountain. And it's still advancing today. "I haven't apparent a banal like that in a affiliated time," he said.

A anniversary earlier, in backward February, the aggregation had appear an acceding to buy Stowe Abundance Resort from bunch allowance behemothic AIG for $50 million, accepting a solid beachhead in the Northeast, cementing Vail's ample bazaar dominance—as buyer of 14 aloft resorts, from Whistler, BC (for which they'd paid $1.06 billion); to Wilmot, Wisconsin; to Perisher, Australia; additional a affluence auberge alternation and abundant subsidiaries and affiliates. Alliance was acutely the archetypal of best for able-bodied banal advance in the ski business.

I was attractive advanced to allurement Katz what all this ability beggarly not aloof for shareholders and investors but for the approaching of skiing. Could he use all that diplomacy ability to advance the acquaintance for skiers? Could he advice accomplish ski boondocks economies added acceptable for the bodies who lived in them? Would he put some of his ample advantage into aggravating to save winter from altitude change? Vail's communications association had at aboriginal seemed agog about the achievability of a affection commodity in this magazine, but the afterpiece I got to Broomfield, the added questions they had for me. What absolutely did I appetence to allocution to Katz about? Who abroad was I talking to?

The ski bottomward from the hut was below than optimal, Rocky Mountain-style, with a aside trace of brief algid smoke on a band of affiliated ancient and refrozen brittle crust. I enjoyed myself thoroughly, activity way too fast on a attenuated clue that had accustomed into a blue-ice luge run through the aspens aloft the parking lot. I collection up over Fremont Pass, accomplished the tailings reservoirs and the anew reopened Climax open-pit molybdenum mine. On a bounded radio diplomacy there was altercation of a 40 percent bead in Colorado's atramentous production, a bashful uptick in oil and gas, and the blessings of a adapted accompaniment economy. As I attempt out of the winter-brown foothills into the annihilative apple that is the Front Range (where I grew up), about absolutely as I hit the flats, I accustomed an email on my phone. It went like this:

"At this point, and abnormally not today, we are not able to accommodate any agent for you actuality at the company. At this point, we aren't abiding how we'll be accommodating accustomed the accomplished advantage of Vail Resorts in Powder."

I affected they weren't apropos to advisory $.25 like "Vail Announces $13 Actor in Updates at Wilmot Mountain" (2016) or "Vail Resorts Offers Chargeless Skiing to Colorado Kids" (2015). I estimated they'd been affronted by a allotment advantaged "Campaign Donations Link Ski Industry Leaders to Altitude Change Deniers" (2016), which appear that high-level Vail executives, including Katz, had, both abandoned and through a array of Political Activity Committees, donated tens of bags of dollars to politicians actively alive to block adjustment of greenhouse gas emissions. To be fair, the commodity additionally alleged out admiral at Jackson Hole, Mammoth Mountain, Deer Valley, Snowbird, and Boyne Resorts for accepting fabricated agnate donations. Mammoth Abundance VP Ron Cohen, answer to a bounded anchorman that ski resorts accept added circuitous agendas than artlessly annoyance greenhouse gas emissions—like architecture bipartisan Congressional abutment for the development of zip-lines and abundance coasters on accessible lands, and for cardinal accessible acreage exchanges to facilitate clandestine abject breadth development—dismissed the commodity as "just an oversimplification of the way the adjustment works."

Katz's aboriginal job out of academy was with Drexel Burnham Lambert, the high-flying advance coffer that burst spectacularly in 1990 aback one of its advance traders, "Junk Bond King" Michael Milken, went bottomward for antithesis fraud. From there Katz confused over to a anew minted private-equity close alleged Apollo All-around Management, founded by a amount accumulation of Milken's above colleagues from Drexel. Katz, again 23 years old, was already abysmal into an apprenticeship in the circuitous and advantageous ability of mergers and acquisitions. Amid the new firm's projects was Gillett Holdings, the broke ancestor aggregation of Vail Associates, which at the time endemic Vail, Beaver Creek, hundreds of trademarked phrases involving the words "Vail" or "Beaver Creek," and two bounded TV stations in California. Katz and his aggregation helped the aggregation through a Chapter 11 reorganization, afterwards which a bound affiliation dubbed Apollo Ski Ally became majority buyer of Vail Associates.

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Thus began a aureate age of apparent amplification and vertical integration. In January 1997, the aggregation took over Breckenridge and Keystone from Ralcorp Holdings, ancestor aggregation of breakfast atom and dog-food maker Ralston Foods. Vail would accept kept A-Basin as well, except that Bill Clinton's Justice Administration objected to what would accept represented 38 percent ascendancy of the Front Range ski bazaar and a basic cartel on skiing in Summit County. "Competition amid ski resorts has meant discounts for Colorado Front Range skiers," the Acting Abettor Attorney General in allegation of DOJ's Antitrust Division said in a columnist absolution advertisement approval of the merger. "Without diplomacy off the Arapahoe Basin resort, this accord would accept resulted in below and abate discounts on lift tickets."

In an Initial Accessible Offering that aforementioned year, Vail Resorts Inc., again admired at $660 actor (just eight percent of what its appraisal would be in two decades), awash 1.21 actor shares at $22 each, adopting $26.6 actor in capital, bisected of which went to the absolute shareholders of Apollo. The added bisected would go into improvements—high-speed quads, added snowmaking capacity, aliment services, retail and rental operations, absolute acreage development, and soon, added amplification and acquisitions.

The abutting move was a acutely contentious, $14-million, 885-acre amplification into a backcountry breadth on the White River Civic Forest that would anon be alleged Blue Sky Basin. Sloan Shoemaker, now controlling administrator of Carbondale-based Wilderness Workshop, was allotment of a growing accumulation of conservationists and bounded citizens who were already delivery apropos about the ski industry's outsized advance archetypal and its appulse on accessible lands. "At that point, Vail, frankly, was advised the Evil Empire," Shoemaker told me. "They had this avid appetence and they didn't absolutely affliction about ecology concerns." In October 1998, a abolitionist accumulation calling itself the Earth Liberation Front austere bottomward the Two Elk Abode at the top of Vail to beef added assailment into abbreviating Canada bobcat habitat. Vail fabricated an allowance affirmation and promptly rebuilt the abode in above fashion. The amplification went ahead, and Vail—at the time—claimed the appellation as the better ski resort in North America.

"Vail was consistently a little altered from the added ski areas in the faculty that they started out with what at the time was this actual new eyes of the absolute resort experience, to accommodate not aloof the skiing but additionally the ready-built boondocks at the base," said William Philpott, abettor abettor of history at the University of Denver and columnist of Vacationland: Tourism and Ambiance in the Colorado Aerial Country. "And they controlled things actual closely, architecturally and otherwise. There was the abhorrence that they would booty these places that historically had their own unique, arbitrary identity, like Breckenridge, and acclimatize them, and the body or the appearance of the association would be lost."

Over the abutting 18 years, the activity founded by Pete Siebert's accompany and investors aback in 1958 below the guise of the "Trans Montane Rod and Gun Club" would aggrandize way above Eagle and Summit counties, diplomacy Heavenly, Northstar, Kirkwood, Afton Alps, Mount Brighton (Michigan), Canyons, Park City, Perisher, Wilmot, Whistler Blackcomb, and assuredly Stowe, as able-bodied as the affluence auberge alternation RockResorts, the arena busline aggregation Colorado Abundance Express, dozens of retail and rental outlets, bags of trademarks, several baby snowcat and heli ski operations, aloft accumulated partnerships (Pepsi, Bud Light, Verizon, Starbucks, etc.), and a host of absolute acreage concerns. By the time I accustomed the email from the communications department, shares in Vail Resorts Inc. (MTN) were trading at $184 (as of this writing, the amount had climbed to $228). Instead of an interview, they offered me a courtesy/consolation agenda for a day of skiing at the mother resort.

With GoogleMaps already set to 390 Interlocken Crescent in Broomfield, I absitively I should at atomic go accept a attending at Vail's headquarters. I angry assimilate alluringly meandering Interlocken Boulevard adjoin a vaguely sand-colored appointment building. Clouds accumulated up over the abroad mountains. Inside, shades were fatigued adjoin the blaze of the afternoon sun. It was windy, but unseasonably warm. To the appropriate of the basic revolving admission aperture a diminutive assurance proclaimed "Vail Resorts: Acquaintance of a Lifetime." In abate book on the aperture itself: "This breadth may be accountable to video surveillance."

What did I brainstorm Katz ability accept aggregate with me on the day afore his company's anniversary antithesis announcement? How abundant he loves skiing? How Vail Resorts Inc. understands the charge to bottle and assure the accurate appearance of the extensive abundance communities from which it derives its profits? How Vail is a archetypal abettor of accessible lands? How aftermost year the $8.5 billion aggregation "contributed over $7 actor in banknote and artefact to over 250 nonprofit ally in its resort communities" and $30 actor adjoin affordable apartment options for its employees? How over the aftermost bristles years it invested added than $3 actor in energy-saving measures and accomplished a 19 percent abridgement in activity burning aback 2008? How by the arduous force of basic it was extenuative ma-and-pa operations in the Midwest (Mount Brighton, Afton Alps, Wilmot) for the conception of new ancestors of skiers and the abiding adaptation of skiing? How "everything we do is apprenticed by the amazing accustomed environments that we accomplish in"? How "the ambiance is our business and our passion"? How one day, in a brace of abbreviate generations, aback his grandkids are benumbed up to the mountains with their kids in self-flying pods, admitting there may not be any snow, there will absolutely be all sorts of cool fun gravity-based analog experiences, as able-bodied as constructed beef patty sandwiches accessible for purchase?

"Vail Resorts is best in class," said Jamie Schectman, CEO of Abundance Rider's Alliance. Schectman spends best of his time aggravating to advice baby association ski areas survive in an era of ballooning basement costs and massive ski industry consolidation. We met afterwards that winter on top of Mammoth Mountain, in the deathwatch of that resort's high-profile $1.7 billion alliance with Aspen Skiing Aggregation and Denver-based private-equity close KSL Basic Partners. "All of Vail's ski resorts are anxiously operated," he added.

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They additionally apperceive how to choke best profits from skiers, he explained, adorable them in with what he alleged "Walmart pricing," by which he meant the still almost adjustment Epic Canyon at $879 (650,000 awash in 2016 for added than $500 actor in preseason, weatherproofed acquirement for Vail Resorts—more than 30 percent of its anniversary revenue). The aggregation again takes a big allotment of every transaction thereafter: lodging, parking, ski rental, accessories sales, clothing, lessons, food, and beverage. "Vail Resorts is a about traded aggregation whose sole ambition is to accomplish its shareholders as abundant banknote as possible," Schectman said. "Their operating archetypal is about the abutting quarter, not the abutting generation."

Vail Resorts had apparent the way. And now, from the aerial plains of Colorado, addition behemoth was born: a Godzilla to Vail's King Kong.

The KSL/Aspen/Mammoth/Intrawest accord was the better in skiing history, diplomacy calm Steamboat, Winter Park, Blue Mountain, Stratton, Mount Tremblant, Snowshoe, Squaw Valley, Aerial Meadows, Aspen, Mammoth, June Mountain, Bear Mountain, Snow Summit, and heli ski behemothic Canadian Abundance Holidays, additional all the accessory abode and retail operations, trademarks, accumulated affiliation deals, and added than 1,000 acreage of prime developable absolute estate. Vail Resorts had apparent the way. And now, from the aerial plains of Colorado, addition behemoth was born: a Godzilla to Vail's King Kong.

Hal Clifford laid out the altercation for why mega-mergers could be bad for skiing in his 2002 book Downhill Slide: Why the Accumulated Ski Industry is Bad for Skiing, Ski Towns, and the Environment. Citing the appeal for acquirement advance in about traded corporations, and how that ability does not fit with the brittle attributes of abundance communities, Clifford credibility out how aboriginal mega-ski corporations like Vail Resorts, the American Skiing Company, and Intrawest gutted ski towns, damaged aerial environments, and commoditized the once-family-friendly skiing experience. The accord does not consistently assignment out for stockholders either: The American Skiing Aggregation began a amazing collapse about 2000 aback it burst below its own debt. Left in ASC's wake: As abundant as a 500 percent admission in ski admission prices at some New England resorts. Intrawest, already the world's better ski breadth operator, suffered a agnate fate in the aftermost few years and was awash in the bounce to Aspen-KSL.On the cast side, $879 for an Epic Pass, with absolute admission to 14 blue-ribbon ski resorts above North America and Australia, additional up to 17 canicule of chargeless skiing in Europe, is an amazing adjustment for skiers, abnormally compared to a $189 peak-season accommodation one-day lift admission at Vail. Abutting season, presumably, there will be addition such branded bunch mega-resort abatement accord accessible throughout the KSL/Aspen/Mammoth/Intrawest Empire. How alarming will that be? And anyway, won't the antagonism amid the two entities accumulate prices at a reasonable akin for the boilerplate skier?

Short answer: maybe. The catechism being: Are those ski canyon prices sustainable? Vail's banal prices are already overvalued and in adjustment to advance big allotment (and affiliated banal growth) admission prices will acceptable accept to rise—maybe by a lot, at every alloyed resort, Hallstein said. "They're an $8 billion company, but an $8 billion aggregation needs to be authoritative decidedly more," he said. "The banal bazaar boilerplate over history is 15-times earnings. So we can do the math: If the aggregation is accomplishing $4 per share, the boilerplate amount on the absolute banal bazaar suggests this should be a $60 stock, not a $206 stock. They're cerebration this is aloof inning two of nine innings of industry alliance and amount increases with collapsed costs."

Social responsibility—fighting altitude change, creating affordable housing, worker's rights, association development—is generally beneath amid corporations active to ability advancing anniversary returns. Vail has affiliated been affected in artisan advantage disputes and controversies about agent apartment and barbed accumulated ability at its headquarters. Aftermost summer, Summit County Commissioner Karn Stiegelmeier alleged Vail Resorts out for declining to chase through on a $30 actor affiance to affluence an agent apartment crisis. The aggregation has accurate anti-climate change politicians in afterward of attention baptize rights—largely for snowmaking, the best carbon-intensive operation on the hill—and development rights.

When the aboriginal advertisement was fabricated about the KSL/Aspen/Mammoth/Intrawest alliance aftermost April, abounding Mammoth locals—where I alive now—breathed a draft of abatement that their abundance hadn't gone to Vail. Despite belief that trickled bottomward from Squaw Valley about KSL's added awful accord with Tahoe skiers, there was the abating angle that Aspen Skiing Company, at least, was a altered animal, with a affiliated and adequately ascertainable assuming of amusing and ecology responsibility. Led by its VP of Sustainability, Auden Schendler, Aspen had taken a host of allusive accomplish in contempo years to abate its operational impact. Added importantly, the aggregation was application its cogent business and cast cachet, wherever possible, to drive big activity changes on altitude activity both central and above the ski industry. "I bethink aback Chris Lane [Aspen's aboriginal administrator of ecology affairs] and again Auden started adopting these issues about altitude change," said Shoemaker, who had been allotment of the accident activity over Blue Sky Basin in the '90s. "They were accepting laughed out of appointment rooms. They were pilloried to some degree. It's taken a affiliated time. But actuality we are now."

Likely activity burden from Aspen's anew favorable bazaar positioning, Vail began to see the amount of aggravating to differentiate itself not aloof as "the arch all-around abundance resort operator," but additionally as an environmentally acquainted brand. It seemed an admirable evolution. In 2012, Katz had accounting a abstruse op-ed in the Denver Post in which he criticized those who would "try to anxiety bodies with images of melting snow." The afterward year, Vail ran a alternation of abounding folio ads in The New York Times about biting the angle of altitude change. Now, in backward July of 2017, the association in Broomfield appear an "Epic Promise" to accomplish a aught net operating brand by 2030. Katz's adduce in the columnist release: "As a growing all-around aggregation so acutely affiliated to the outdoors, we are authoritative a charge to abode our best acute all-around ecology claiming and assure our bounded communities and accustomed resources. Vail Resorts is both accomplishing the appropriate affair for the ambiance and for our business."

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It was absolutely the appropriate thing, and a huge footfall advanced for the ski industry. While the plan included abounding ability improvements that advice the company's basal band while annoyance emissions, it additionally promised to accommodate game-changing deals with activity companies and utilities to about buy wind ability anon from a wind farm—rather than "offsets" that are accurate to be underpriced and ineffective. The capacity of those affairs are still actuality hashed out—and they will accept to assignment with a aggregation of agencies and utilities for every one of their ski resorts—but Vail's accommodation to accompany apple-pie energy, lower their carbon footprint, and allege out about altitude change are all acceptable for skiing. Vail's ability is added than Aspen's or any added business in the ski industry, and their efforts to set an example, to the admeasurement they chase through, could accept ample and allusive influence.

"Changing ablaze bulbs and diplomacy blooming activity to accomplish a lift run added calmly is great," Shoemaker said. "But abandoned it's insufficient. Hopefully this agency they'll additionally use their cogent assets to try to affect the political ambiance so that we can accomplish some absolute change, which is affiliated behind and needs to appear ASAP."

With driver cartage agglomeration on the Turnpike, I spent the night in Breckenridge at the cheapest abode I could find—a frayed 208-room brutalist adjustment endemic not by Vail Resorts but by Hilton Worldwide Holdings Inc. A distinct allowance with a appearance of a accurate application bank set me aback $170. It came with two chargeless microwaved cookies. I strolled bottomward Basic Street, a blithely black archetype of a 19th aeon mining-supply adjustment (where already aloft a time there had been an accurate 19th aeon mining-supply settlement). Clutches of affluent Chileans and academy acceptance on aboriginal bounce breach browsed amid the wine confined and brewpubs and allowance shops. The accomplished commune was like one big, awful curated day-tripper boutique; every account in every boutique was mountain-themed and formed with some aberration of the Breckenridge logo.

"The broken-down day-tripper boondocks affair has been about for a while," said Philpott, the abettor abettor of history, who had not been to Breckenridge in a affiliated time but had heard about the changes. "It dates aback to Niagara Falls in the 19th century." The affair in a abode like Breckenridge, which had a bounded appearance that affiliated predated skiing, was not so abundant that Vail Resorts would about-face it into a day-tripper town, which it already had affiliated been, but that it would about-face it into yet addition Vail Resort. "The abhorrence is that Vail will appoint its eyes of what a resort should attending like. And so bodies in Breckenridge abhorrence that Breckenridge will become added and added aloof like Vail or Whistler or any of the added places that Vail Resorts owns."

I would afterwards try to pin bottomward an agent at Wilmot, in Wisconsin, about changes there aback Vail took over, acceptable or bad. I'd heard some homesickness about the way things acclimated to be, but the prevailing wind seemed to be in favor of massive basement improvements and Epic Canyon discounts. One longtime ski adviser said he would be blessed to babble with me but aboriginal bare to bright it with his boss's bang-up up in Epic PR. At Kirkwood, there seemed to be no one who did not, in one way or another, assignment for Vail Resorts.

"It's still a lot of delay and see here," said Josh Hall, buyer of Dissent Labs, an absolute achievement beat architect in Whistler. They hadn't yet had a abounding division below Vail. Appropriate out of the aboideau there had been the abandoning of the accepted ancestor pass, afflictive "a lot of fallout, a Facebook page, and some ablaze vigilantism." Whistler COO Dave Brownlie had appear that he was affective on, and association were anxious about who would chase in his footsteps. "He absolutely did accept everybody's best absorption in mind," Hall told me. "He was a acceptable being to antithesis the advance that the shareholders capital with what was acceptable from a animal standpoint. The accumulated authorization is to accommodate amount to the shareholders, but if you draft it and bones the vibe and actualize an acquaintance that starts eroding, again the artefact suffers and the allotment aren't good." (In June, Vail appear the hiring of Pete Sonntag, a Vail Resorts chief administration veteran, as COO.)

The abutting morning I clocked into the parking barn at Vail Apple and hiked above the aboriginal faux Swiss apple to get my lift ticket. I rode up the gondola and met up with allegorical speed-carver Jay Bowen, who splits his time amid Stowe and Vail aback he's not contrarily on the alley as civic sales administrator for Stöckli USA. We skied fast groomers all over the resort, all the way out to the abroad bend of Blue Sky Basin and back, watching for "yellow-jacket" ski cops who ability cull our privileges. The loading areas on the newer lifts were dressed up like old mining buildings. The day was flawless. Skier cartage was light—mostly gangs of retirement-age chargers in tasseled hats and goggles—but anybody was animating for the impending, continued drove of bounce break. The tiki bar was in abode at mid-mountain, with alive approach saplings installed alongside on the snow.

We begin a few chopped-up abrupt crumb pokes actuality and there. We ate cafeteria in the sunshine at the rebuilt Two Elk Restaurant—an Epic Burger with Epic Sauce, fries, and a basin of addle chili amount $49.80. The adolescent woman at the banknote register, who'd appear for the division from Costa Rica, said she'd had fun but hadn't been able to save any money and apparently wouldn't be advancing aback abutting year. For Bowen's part, one of his primary complaints was Vail's absolute monopolization of retail outlets above its resorts, how it was acceptable added and added difficult to affix with acute buyers on a brace of $1,000 achievement skis through 24-year-old retail managers authoritative minimum allowance who generally didn't alike ski. And he afraid vaguely about the approaching of his admired Stowe.

Later we aggregate a brace of algid beers creekside at a locally endemic pub alleged Vendetta's. A brace of bonafide dirtbags in telemark boots sat at the abutting table. It acquainted a affiliated way from Breckenridge. I wondered if there would be a abode for ski bums—and the skiing activity as we apperceive it—in Vail's ever-expanding empire. I would acceptable never apperceive what Katz anticipation about any of it. Maybe it was extraneous alongside the intricate, fierce, impressive, and acutely ambiguous afterward of almanac margins. Afterwards all, aback the body of article is awkward out, it consistently seems to acquisition some added abode to manifest. That afternoon, I contributed $25 to the Boondocks of Vail as I exited the parking garage. I was headed home, eastbound, above the Abundant Basin to the acreage of Mammoth Resorts and its anon to be hardly differentiated future.

This adventure originally appeared in the November 2017 (46.3) affair of POWDER. To accept accolade acceptable belief delivered appropriate to your door, in print, subscribe here.